Fibershed Book Review

Review by Heather

10/10 Sneks

Title: Fibershed: Growing a Movement of Farmers, Fashion Activists, and Makers for a New Textile Economy

Author: Rebecca Burgess with Courtney White

General Notes: Fibershed is a very interesting book advocating for the use of local fibers and dyes as a way to achieve economic and environmental sustainability. As someone who loves natural dyeing and dreams of one day owning a farm specifically for cultivating fibers, this book is RIGHT UP MY ALLEY. Unlike many of the books we plan to review for this blog, this book is not necessarily full of patterns and projects. Instead, it challenges those of us who are interested in the fiber arts and fashion to think about the impacts of those interests. Essentially, a fibershed is the local area in which which indigenous plants, animals, soils, and human activity are use to create textiles. Instead of importing clothing from India or Guatemala, the idea is to have local farmers grow and cultivate the plants and animals in alternating crops/ranges with other crops that benefit the soil and complement the food crops. The fibers from these animals and plants would then be processed at local processing places to increase jobs in that area. Processing would include things such as dyeing, cleaning, carding, and spinning. These materials would then be available for local designers and makers to create garments and other household goods. As these materials degrade over time and with use they would then be able to be composted back into the land (as they wouldn’t have all that plastic stuff and harmful chemicals), bringing the cycle full circle. I was particularly inspired by the idea of having a dye garden. How cool would it be to have a community garden that specifically cultivates plants for natural dyeing? It has made me want to do more research into mushroom dyeing and spore printing with fabric as well, especially since all this rain in Anchorage, AK has meant mushies are out in abundance!

Aesthetics

This is a very beautiful book and a lot of that beauty is lost if you use only the audio version. The colors captured in the photographs of the different textiles and plants are literal rainbows of actual earth tones. If you questioned the beauty that you can achieve from natural dyes and printing, this text will absolutely change your mind. The colors you see in this text are very much on the same vibe of the current neutral/grey/muted tones we see in the boho-chic style.  

Accessibility

The book is 288 pages with a mix of full-color photographs and text throughout. The audio book lacks the imagery but still conveys the important points. At approximately $22 for the kindle and $19 for the paperback, the price can pose as a potential barrier.

Technical Skills Presentation

What I really enjoyed about this book was that the authors assumed anyone reading this was fairly new to the concept of cultivating fiber and dyes. Whether they were discussing the process for producing Indigo, the relationship between fiber farming and food farming, or the progression through fashion and creating clothing, we were being gently educated. They took the step back to explain why fast fashion was problematic without necessarily blaming and guilting the consumer. This book also talks about ways that their regional Fibersheds have been working to change the issues caused by fast fashion and talked about resources for being able to establish a fibershed community anywhere. Their website (which is referenced in the book) also includes a tool kit for people to adapt to their area. https://fibershed.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Fibershed-Brands-Toolkit.pdf

Cultural Context

It is important to recognize that the ideas behind what is advocated in this book focus primarily on the Fibershed/ecological area of California. Because of this, what the author is advocating for is very doable by anyone with the means (money, land, time, physical ability) or who already lives a largely subsistence life style. In order to truly be able to escape the trappings of fast fashion, individuals have to be able to afford the alternatives and have the time to make the items. Having previously lived in the literal Arctic (Utqiagvik, AK), I know that many people there hunted for the furs they used or had family members who hunted while they tanned and prepped the hides and furs. This book challenged me to look at my Alaskan plant species such as fireweed and tundra cotton to think about ways these fibers may begin to be used.

Overall Rating

I finished this book feeling very reflective on my own use of fibers and relationship with the land. What Burgess is advocating is not new. The tenants and values she discusses in this book are consistent with what indigenous people throughout the US have been advocating for. I have been truly inspired with this book to move towards making my own clothing, use only natural fibers in my projects, and look at ways to contribute and establish a fibershed community in Anchorage, AK. I definitely recommend it to anyone who wants to have a deeper relationship to their fiber-based arts and the environment they live in.

Feminist Cross-Stitch Craft Book Review

Book Review by Heather

9/10 Sneks of Approval

Title: Feminist Cross-Stitch

Author: Stephanie Rohr

General Notes: In the wake of the recent Supreme Asshats Court Ruling, overturning Roe v. Wade, we thought it would be apt to have a review of some feminist craft books. In light of the ruling, the Gorgons have been stitching up some of the messages as a way to cope, but also, leaving the finished pieces in public places to stir conversation and show people who are capable of getting pregnant that they are not alone. Our Instagram @knot_sew_crafty_gorgons will be featuring some of these hidden stitches and we would love to see others join the effort and placing messages of their own throughout the US.

  • Aesthetics The cover of the book is very eye-catching and tells you what you’re goihng to be getting with the featured project “A woman’s place is in the Revolution.” The projects throughout the book are attractive in their simplicity, taking over the floral designs one would expect on samplers from Little House on the Prairie and slamming them around powerful statements. The largest piece is the pattern on Rosie the Riveter and is stunning in its complexities, with 55 thread colors used. Patterns are gorgeous and could be used as framed projects, tea towels, or pretty much anywhere else you want to show them off. The beautiful floral and geometric borders, when juxtaposed with some of the jarring and bold statements lead to at least a smirk by any feminist. 
  • Accessibility The text throughout the book is fairly large and uncluttered. The patterns are also enlarged for ease of reference. The top right corner of the project page indicates level of complexity with one “X” indicating for beginners and four “X” indicating for advanced stitchers
  • Technical Skills Presentation Rohr’s brilliant design of this book breaks down the cross-stitch basics simply, including being specific about which size needle to use for which count Aida- something many texts often leave vague. The step-out diagrams of each stitch are clear and beginner friendly. One aspect that sets Rohr’s text apart is her page on Cross-Stitch Troubleshooting. Her problems and solutions suggested are ones commonly posted about on Facebook stitching groups. This book also includes a reference for finishing the piece with framing and washing and ironing instructions. Finally, my favorite aspect of this is how Rohr indicates the size of hoop and the relevant Aida count above each pattern, making it incredibly easy to pair. 
  • Cultural Context As stated above, Rohr’s book is incredibly relevant with the recent Supreme Court ruling. Rohr does include patterns for the LGBTQIA+ community, and some patterns, such as the RESIST pattern, are not necessarily specific to women. The patterns are very focused on “women” but there is some inter-sectional presentation, including patterns poking fun at Donald Trump and his “Bad Hombres” bullshit. The patterns also include an homage to moment Maxine Waters declared she was “Reclaiming My Time.”
  • Overall Rating This is a book I have stitched several patterns from for my public art outreach (leaving the pieces in public spaces for strangers to find). The patterns, in general, work up quickly and are very attractive. Honestly, this book would be a great gift for any feminist in your life or any cross-stitcher. My favorite pattern, which I have yet to stitch up, is the “ Tools of the Revolution” pattern, featuring craft supplies. I would love to see more advocacy themed patterns come out from Rohr, especially as our politicians continue to create fodder that is perfect for subversive stitching. 

Up-cycled Craft Supply Sources

In talking about capitalism in our latest episode, we got thinking about sourcing craft materials. While there’s no true responsible consumption under capitalism, thrifting and getting materials from up-cycled craft supply sources can arguably help cut down on landfill mass and possibly help grow a small business! Here’s some businesses that sell used materials. Some we’ve purchased from, we’ll note that where applicable. Always shop smart and use your own discretion when buying from anyone. -Jesii

Make & Mend – https://makeandmendshop.com/

Secondhand Art and Craft Supplies

I’ve purchased from this shop but haven’t gotten my order just yet. Not totally unexpected given that I’m in Alaska. I’ll update when my stuff comes in. From the looks, they have really decent prices and a good variety of materials. They also have a regular schedule when they post new materials so you can check for specifics supplies on restocking days.

In addition to craft stuff they also carry books, glassware, home decor and some other stuff. Just a fun online shop to poke around in. I’m particular impressed with their organization of categories, it’s easy to find what you’re looking for while simultaneously giving the feeling that you’re uncovering secret goodies in the sub menus.

DuckyLayShoppe – Etsy Shop

Assorted Up-cycled Materials

If assemblage is your craft of choice, you HAVE to check out this selection. Just an amazing assortment of everything from game pieces to random metal bits, to doll parts. I had so much fun sifting through the pages of found treasures in this shop. If you’re looking for inspiration for your next project, Lynn Marie probably has an item that will give you the start of your next big thing, AND will keep something pretty neat out of the landfill. We love a win-win!

GillowsCo – Etsy Shop

Leather Artisan

This leathercraft sells their scraps. I’ve ordered from them in the past and the materials were high quality and well packaged. If you make leather jewelry or other small leather works, this is a great maker to get quality leather scraps from.

That’s just the beginning really, there’s lots of offline places to find craft supplies, but hopefully this inspires you to get something used or up-cycle materials for your next project. Other places to check out are your local Buy Nothing group on Facebook, Craigslist (yes, people still sell on there!), FB Marketplace, and your local thrift stores.